Closing a DCS outdoor kitchen for winter means draining lines, shutting off gas, covering only when dry, and checking hoses, connections and igniters in spring.

To keep a DCS side burner and griddle running all season, wipe the igniter after boil-overs, clear the grease trough, cover the module and clean before storage.

Salt air corrodes igniter wiring and connectors on a DCS grill before the steel shows wear; here is what it does, how to rinse safely and when to have it checked.

When a DCS Series 7 or Series 9 rotisserie motor will not turn, start with the spit seating, the plug and the load balance before suspecting the motor.

A DCS power burner that won’t hold a simmer may have a gummed valve, wind, a shared regulator issue or mismatched cookware; here is how to narrow it down.

A yellow flame on a DCS grill burner means too little air reaches the gas; look for a blocked venturi, clogged ports or a fuel mismatch before replacing the burner.

If you smell gas near a DCS grill, move away, leave the controls alone and call the gas utility or 911 from a safe distance; here are the likely causes afterward.

When a DCS grill igniter clicks but the burner will not light, check the burner cap seating, the venturi and the gas supply before assuming the electrode failed.

The DCS36DS-BQAR is a 36-inch grill from the DS series, listed with two sibling models in the same guide. On grills of this age, corrosion at the firebox seams is the thing to check first, because it decides whether new burners are worth fitting. If the firebox is sound, a new ignition switch and electrodes […]

The 48-inch DCS48DS-BQAR has a large, heavy hood, and when its hinges or counterbalance wear it becomes hard to lift and dangerous to drop. Hinge and spring repair is usually possible even on this early model. With several burners across the width, one weak burner is easy to spot with a quick flame check at […]